Haria
Having just finished scribbling our thoughts about city life in Arrecife, it’s literally a breath of fresh air to begin pondering the delights of the peaceful countryside and coastlines of Haria. Yes, we have to admit we have a big, squishy soft spot for the northern region of Lanzarote. It’s far from the famous Lanzarote Resorts of Playa Blanca and Puerto Del Carmen.
There are a smattering of small towns/villages that are governed from the main town of Haria: Arrieta, Máguez, Mala, Tabayesco, Charco del Palo, Punta Mujeres, Órzola, Yé and Guinate. The region has a tiny population of around 5,000 inhabitants.
The best way to mooch around the hot spots of the north is by car as the bus service between the towns and villages is minimal to say the least.
Haria town itself is known as the Valley of 1000 palms, although the locals claim (“my dad’s bigger than yours…”) there are a few thousand. In the past many wealthy and influential Canarians lived here and you get a feel for the old school gentility when you walk along the tree lined Plaza Leon y Castillo.
Not that you’d necessarily want to pop into a Town Hall when you’re on your hols but although the Ayuntamiento building is a bit shabby take a look at the massive old doors, fabulous old tiles and skyscraper high ceilings. It gives another glimpse of a time long gone.
Surreal moments. It’s not uncommon to hear peacocks cry out as you walk past an old enclosed garden in the centre of town and once we spotted a herd of black and white Friesian Cows at the roundabout where you head down the mountain road towards Arrieta – Expect the unexpected…
Hiking in the Region
The hiking in the countryside around Haria is well worth getting a sweat on and the odd blister. Park the car, put your sensible shoes on, take loads of water, apply sun cream and off you go. If you prefer Guided Walks then we have just the chap to the perfect walk/trek/hike.
Great walks; for a short walk go from Arrieta beach through the village and follow the coast along to next small town Punta Mujeres. Stick, as far as possible to the seafront and you’ll reach a point where the village ends and nature takes over. For a longer walk continue to wander the sea front path all the way to Jameos del Agua and if your lucky catch some fantastic surf action here. Heading north from Arrieta you come to the village of Punta Mujeres a sleepy fishing village with a rocky coastline. It’s edgier than Arrieta with more locals and fewer tourists.
Restaurants in Haria
There are a handful of good restaurants, our favourites are La Frontera (Casa Atrás 4 tel: 928 83 53 10. Open from midday to 21.30, closed Tues. Sunday’s midday to 7pm.) and La Puerta Verde (Calle Fajardo 24, tel: 0034 928 83 52 65. Open lunchtime and evenings Thurs to Sat only). Watch out for the La Frontera signpost as you get to the main through street in Haria. It’s set overlooking a meadow like valley – after we’ve had the odd drop of rain that is – and specialises in meat done on the grill and excellent fresh fish. They have a little kids play area in a well-positioned spot so that you can watch your high-energy offspring whilst you enjoy a moment perusing the menu in peace. Puerto Verde is just off the main road through Haria that takes you to Maguez and has a chilled out rustic feel. Thomas, the German owner/chef experiments with tapas with a twist and pulls it off fabulously.
Art and Culture
In a small square in front of the Ayuntamiento are some discreet steps heading underground. They lead down to El Aljibe a gallery built in what was once a large underground water tank. It’s generally only open when there is an exhibition being held there.
The tiny Saturday market (09:00-13:00) is a treat with 30 plus stalls offering local produce, such as goat’s cheese, honey, fruit and vegetables and handicrafts.
If you continue journeying north along the coastal road you’ll come to two Cesar Manrique designed tourist attractions Jameos Del Agua and the Cueva De Los Verdes they are well worth taking time out to see, particularly Jameos del Agua. Both places are very tricky if you have mobility difficulties or kids in pushchairs.
Go north from here and you will pass through an unusual landscape unlike the rest of the island (massive boulders covered in lichen and strange plants) and there’s some great little sandy cove beaches nestling in the black, volcanic coastline. Drive slowly to find small off road car parks as the turn-ins are easy to miss.
The great Cesar Manrique’s version of a Cactus Zen Garden is one of our favourite places on the island to sit quietly with a steaming cup of coffee (in case you hadn’t guessed it we are addicts) and ponder life. You find it on the coast road between Mala and Guatiza. After many years of living in a big cactus field (and not understanding why anyone would want to go and look at cactus) we ventured in and found it was…. beautiful
Surfing
Arrieta is a seaside village with one of the prettiest and most child friendly beaches on the island (Playa de la Garita). With a winning combination of sandy beach, superb beach bar, kid’s play park and small waves that you can surf, bodyboard or just body surf in, this is a terrific way to spend a day. At certain times of the year the surf is pretty good though. Check out Magic Seaweed.
Surfing or Bodyboarding – private lessons for beginners (adults and children). There’s only one instructor on the island that we let look after the crown jewels (kids) in our family when it comes to surfing and bodyboarding. Put simply Dennis W Smith is “the man”. He holds lessons at different beaches on the island dependant upon where clients are staying, their experience and age. Check him out at Surf Lessons in Lanzarote.
Restaurants in the Local Area
Food, food, food – for lunch we lurve the Churingito beach bar (how does that man make so much food in such a tiny kitchen?) with it’s ambient tunes and top tapas at cheap prices. Add a cold Coronita with a sliver of lemon, look out at that view and know you have found heaven! For evenings or Sundays we’re mad for El Amencer (La Garita 46, Arrieta. Open 12:00-20:00, shut Thursdays) and El Lago on the beach road heading towards Punta Mujeres (tel: 928 848176). Both offer excellent fresh fish and traditional island food.
El Lago also merits another mention, not for it’s superb food but for it’s central fishpond. Angel, the owner, has some massive old Grouper living in a pond around which you dine. For kids it’s a great way to “get down and personal” with these large fish. At certain times Angel will let the kids take some fresh squid and feed the fish which is a right hoot and elicits squeals of delight as the fish tussle for the squid. It’s not unknown to be tucking into your gambas al ajllo (garlic prawns) and to be squirted or splashed by a cheeky Grouper. The pond is also home to large crabs and lobsters; their fate is a little different to that of the resident Groupers!!
Palenke’s Restaurant is found at the top of one of the side streets leading into Punta Mujeres. If you park on the large dirt parking place you’ll spot a sign for it. All their food is good, but the best bit is that it’s one of the only restaurants in the north that stays open late. How many times have we been close to starvation and only survived due to their late-night policy! They have a large BBQ area and big covered terrace where you’ll sometimes hear live music being played.
For a quick, tasty tapas snack try La Piscina on the waters edge. Don’t be scared off by the abundance of locals chewing over the fat or having full blown arguments over a few cents and some playing cards. It’s actually a great place to check out of an evening, a real sense of cultural differences. A real eye opener to the pace of lives that we live today and that the simple things are always the best in life.
Many restaurants have opening hours to suit the slow pace of life throughout the Haria region and it’s not easy to find restaurants that serve you after 20:00 so try eating early or check with restaurants to see when they are open. Sunday is when Canarian families go out to eat, try going a little earlier i.e. 1-2 p.m. to avoid the rush.
Beaches
At Playa La Garita, Arrieta, walk the wooden jetty and sit at the cement pontoon at the end. Mingle with the fishermen and kids hurling themselves off the jetty and pontoon into the waves. Want to feel like a teenager again? Jump in yourself (best done at high tide) and swim back to the shore. There’s a great selection of apartments in Lanzarote particularly here in Arrieta and Punta Mujeres.
Wander through the village to Casa Juanita – the “Dolls House”. The story goes that year’s back a wealthy businessman had the house built for his young daughter. She, unfortunately, died before it was completed. Not sure if this is true, but it’s certainly one of the most unusual properties on the island.
At certain times of the year, (and when the wind’s blowing in the right direction), the hang-gliders and para-gliders are an amazing site hovering high in the sky, having launched themselves from the mountains behind Arrieta. Slowly they come down to land on the area close to the beach. If the wind’s blowing differently they’ll launch off the other side of the mountains and put on the same spectacular show over towards Famara.
Snorkelling in the natural pools and rocky shallows around Punta Mujeres. Even in shallow waters the water is clear and brimming with colourful fish.
The most northerly village is called Orzola. Main reasons for visiting Orzola are to take the ferry to the islet of La Graciosa, the quiet (but sometimes treacherous) beach just west of the village (a much loved local surf spot) or if you are lost… There are plenty of restaurants, so if you are lost you may as well grab a good fresh fish lunch.
Alternative Therapies and Holisitic Treatments
Holistic treatments (amongst other things Reiki, Aura-Soma, Crystal and Colour treatments and healing) from Josie at Atira. Josie’s treatment room is a colour filled treasure trove in her home. You might begin with a chat and a harmless cup of tea but before you know it Josie will be weaving her special kind of magic and you’ll leave either having had some major questions answered or glowing from the boost of energy or healing treatment you’ve received.
La Graciosa
Although La Graciosa is just of the coast of Orzola in Haria, it’s actually governed by the council of Teguise. Makes no sense to us either, but there’s probably some great historical reason for this – or a big pot of money changed hands somewhere back in the mists of time! La Graciosa is a great day trip, lots of Ferries daily make it very easy (Ferry Timetable). The beaches and water are so crystal clear that the words just simply don’t do it justice. There are some great restaurants where the ferry docks and there is also a few places to stay if you want to do a one night. There is also a story of old linking Long John Silver and buried treasure to this island, so if you’ve got a few wannabe pirates in tow then check out the full story, or alternatively seek out a modern day Treasure Hunt version, our kids love this. All you need is a download for geographical co-ordinates from a iphone application or a handheld sat nav. For more info on La Graciosa.
If you don’t manage to fit a La Graciosa day trip in, another way to get a feel for La Graciosa is to see it from above. Drive up to Mirador del Rio the northernmost tip and look down over the neighbouring island. The Mirador is another of Manrique’s attractions; you can either go in or just park up and go for a walk to take in the views. Plenty of energy? Take the road along the coast from the Mirador heading toward Guinate, try to keep your eyes on the road (not so easy with the spectacular views) and travel approx 2 km until you come to a parking area on the right hand side. It’s a turn in that’s easy to miss, but if you come to a massive stone house on your left you’ve just gone past it.
From the parking area is a weaving rough pathway down the El Risco cliffs to the beaches below. It’s about a 2km hike and as exhausting downhill as uphill. You’ll need good footwear, water, snacks, sun cream and anything else you need for the day (there’s nothing but sand, sea and nature down there). This is one of the least used beaches on the island and it’s fantastic.
Theme Park (or rather as close as you will get in Lanzarote)
The only claim to fame (that we know of anyhow) that the tiny village of Guinate has is its tropical bird park / . Whilst not in the league as Disneyland, Legoland or Chessington it’s a gutsy little place run by people who work very hard at what they do. Although not a full day out it’s a sure hit with kids. We’ve had so much fun watching the antics of the Meercats and the Penguins – yep, even Lanzarote has it’s own immigrant Penguin colony!
From Guinate a nice drive heading through the centre of Lanzarote is to follow signs to Máguez, then Haria, up through the winding roads of Los Valles and down to the old capital city of Teguise.
And Finally, if you don’t want any tan lines? Go to Charco del Palo it’s a nutty naturist village down on the coast close to Mala (turn down towards the ocean at the road next to the Medical Centre in Mala, follow the wiggly road for about 2 km’s until you come to Charco). You can go to the supermarket, eat in a restaurant or do pretty much anything (within reason) in your birthday suit here. The local nudists call us “textiles” but are quite tolerant of our bikinis and budgie smugglers (aka Speedo’s). Has a very “Tales of the Unexpected” feel to it.
