Costa Teguise
At first glance Costa Teguise has some parallels with Milton Keynes. It had no original community or village and it is a purpose-built resort based on a grid-like system of roads. Fortunately for those of you on holiday (and no offence meant to Milton Keynes) this is where the similarities end.
It is one of the 3 main tourist areas on the island (the others being Puerto del Carmen and Playa Blanca) and is a short 20-minute journey from the airport. Costa Teguise’s main claims to fame are the fantastic conditions for windsurfing and that the King of Spain has a house here.
In the early 80’s it was envisaged that Costa Teguise would be the chicest tourist resort on the island. To this end it began on a grand scale with the widest local roads on the island lined with majestic palm trees. To the north you enter/leave Costa Teguise through a Manrique designed porch and the grand papa of all hotels on the island. The iconic Gran Meliá Salinas, (also designed by the man himself), is symbolic of the aspirations of the town planners and the people wielding power at that time.
The idea was a good one; take a stretch of coastline with a few nice beaches, put in a promenade with various commercial areas dotted along, build a mix of hotels, apartment complexes and nice villas, add a hefty sprinkling of tourists et voila an enticing holiday resort.
Even today whenever a high-ranking politician comes to town, ok we like to namedrop, someone like Mr Zapatero (the current Prime Minister of Spain if you didn’t recognize the name). He always stays in Costa Teguise. If there’s a gathering of high-level politicians from various countries they also stay in Costa Teguise. Guess where the current head honcho of the Canarian government (Paulino Rivero) also goes for his summer holidays? Yes Costa Teguise. In fact the Tourist Boards for the other islands are getting a little peeved with all the PR that Costa Teguise receives from it’s heavyweight political tourists.
If we are honest, (and we are), somewhere along the line the grand plan got watered down a little and, after a couple of decades of wear and tear, some areas look a little dated but on the whole it is a successful, solid family resort. Recent efforts at sprucing Costa Teguise up have made quite a difference and plans are being mooched for a new marina or water sports area. The resort hugs the coastline from the beach of Playa de los Charcos at the northern end to Playa del Ancla at the southern end and stretches inland a km or two.
Beaches & Water Activities
The beaches of Costa Teguise are well loved by families and windsurfers alike. There’s no real clash of interests here as the windsurfers only launch from a few areas and they whiz around (or tootle if they are beginners) much further out than the paddling and swimming depths enjoyed by families.
The most well known beach is the horseshoe shaped Las Cucharas. With golden sand, a shallow slope into the water and not too many waves it’s a sure hit with kids. Along the promenade here are plenty of bars, restaurants and shops so it’s a good choice if you want to enjoy a nice lunch overlooking the sea. There are toilets and showers here and lifeguards during the busy times of the year.
Other beaches in the Costa Teguise area are Los Charcos, Playa Bastian, El Jabillo and Playa del Ancla. These are smaller than Las Cucharas and there are generally fewer people there.
Snorkelling and Scuba Diving
For snorkelling enthusiasts we highly recommend El Jabillo in front of the Hotel Occidental Teguise Playa in Avenida del Jabillo and Playa del Ancla a tiny beach in front of the Other Occidental Hotel (the Allegro Oasis in Avenida del Mar). The underwater life is stunning with masses of brightly coloured fish and it’s no wonder that Lanzarote has such a great reputation for scuba diving, having said that if you don’t fancy a scuba experience the snorkelling is no sloppy second. Snorkel gear is easy to find in Costa Teguise and fairly cheap. If you looking for higher quality gear then you can always rent it from one of the many diving centres.
Now if you do fancy a spot of scuba diving we would recommend Calipso Diving. It’s the longest established dive school on the island (we did our PADI Course there!), and they are experts on the various dive sites. You may not want an all singing-dancing course with whistles, bells and a certificate whilst on holiday, but they have a number of different dive “experiences” for adults and kids. If you are already an experienced diver these are the guys for you.
Windsurfing
Windsurfing Costa Teguise is the no.1 spot for those who love windsurfing, or those wanting to learn. It is quite a windy place and conditions are good for a large part of the year, especially in the summer when the Trade Winds howl at their strongest. The main hub of windsurf activity is found close to the Las Cucharas beachfront.
There are many good windsurf schools in the area, our favourite happens to be Windsurf Paradise You can find the school and rental shop right in the middle of the beach next to the red-cross-station, where you have the shortest distance to carry your kit to the beach. Windsurf Paradise also has a windsurf clothes and accessories shop and an excellent café called Poco Loco serving super healthy food (well, asides from the yummy brownies..) in CC Maretas in the main Avenida Islas Canarias. From the main road you see a commercial centre with a Post Office and vets surgery, the windsurf shops and cafe are around the other side of this building, you can drive around as there is a large car park there.
Because the conditions are so good here the PWA (Professional Windsurfers Association) holds part of their World Tour in Costa Teguise every June/July. When the pro’s are in town it’s fantastic to go and sit on the quayside where the event is held and watch the spectacular competition. We especially enjoy the freestyle competition where you see the biggest “airs and radical manoeuvres”
Walking and Relaxing Activities
Walking the seafront promenade is a lovely way to spend some time and a good way to check out Costa Teguise as well. There is usually a pleasant, cooling breeze along the seafront, so taking a stroll from one end to the other of Costa Teguise won’t leave you gasping for breathe. In fact there are so many watering holes en route that there’s a good chance you could end up very re-hydrated, and perhaps a little tipsy, if you test some of the establishments. In case you’re feeling the urge for a pint of cold cider one of the best Brit Pubs is The Dolphin Inn. Ian, the owner, is a football mad Brummie (don’t hold it against him!) with genuine charm and a winning way with clients. C.C. Puerto Tahiche (Tel 0034 928 592 55).
Many of the resorts squares and commercial centres run alongside the promenade so it’s also good for retail therapy (though this is a little limited). At the far end of the promenade you come to a large, fenced property with a heli-pad – this house “La Mareta” is more commonly known as the King’s House (although it’s owned by the state, rather than the King of Spain himself). You’ll know if any of the royal family or other dignitaries are ensconced as the flags go up and you see a much higher Police presence in the area.
Wellness
Angie Appleton – Holistic Therapist
Angie’s aromatherapy massages are pure heaven, we love the fact that she consults with you to find out what will suit you best, you can even help to choose the oils she works with. Her treatment room is tranquil and spotless and she immediately puts you at ease. If we want to treat our friends, or ourselves, a session booked with Angie is always high on the wish list. Asides from aromatherapy Angie’s other treatments include reflexology, Indian head massage, deep tissue massage, Reiki and Hopi ear candling. (Tel 0034 928 590 886).
Golf
There are only two golf courses in Lanzarote (the other is in Tias) with the Costa Teguise one being the original. It is quite a complex course, designed by John Harris and first opened to the public in 1978. Built at the bottom of an ancient volcano, the 18-hole course has superb views out over the ocean and Costa Teguise and Arrecife.
With over 3,000 palm trees and other beautiful plants it is an oasis and after the browns and greys of the Lanzarote landscape the golf course area is a blast of greenness and colour that almost shocks your senses.
Green fees range from €55-€68, (dependant upon the time of year), and when considering the massive complexity and expense of watering on this island it’s not excessive pricing.
(Random Rant Fairly often, when Costa Teguise is mentioned in guidebooks or travel report sites, the obvious ugliness of the water desalination plant is commented upon. Yes, it’s a blot on the landscape to some degree, BUT without the desalination plant there would be no water here – all water in Lanzarote is produced from a process that turns sea water into useable household water, there is very little natural water here – Simply put, no water, no tourism)
The golf club has an old-fashioned charm to it and it’s a great spot to go and have a leisurely lunch. The Getaria Restaurant & Grill combines the traditional grill cuisine of northern Spain, with a creative and modern flair. Opens, Sun – Thurs 9:00 to 21:00, Fri & Sat 9:00 to 23:30. (Tel 0034 925 590 512 Ext. 12).
There is also a cafeteria at the golf club offering breakfast, a “tapas” menu, the best Jamon (Spanish dried ham) and other Spanish specialities.
Paddle Tennis
Paddle Tennis For some unknown reason Paddle Tennis is massively popular in Costa Teguise. There are 4 new courts at the Golf course and many available to book at various hotels and complexes throughout the resort. It’s fast, fun and a great way to burn off any excess energy your kids (or your partner!!) may have. If you already play squash, you will find this fun and an easy alternative in the sun.
Biking & Trekking
In CC Maretas in Avenida de las Canarias you will find a great bike rental called The Bike Station, and Olita Treks tel: 928 592148 info@olita-treks.com. Both companies are run by very nice people who have bucket loads of experience in their individual areas. Contact them for more details about the tours and services they offer.
Aerobics Queen? Gym Buff?
Lifestyle Fitness Centre, A very well-equipped gym with a range of morning and evening classes including Pilates, Aerobics and Spinning. You can pay for a single drop in session at €7 or for a few days/week at a time. There is such a variety of equipment and free weights there that you never have to wait around. Some of the staff speak good English and can give you guidance as to how to use the equipment correctly. Who says you can’t come back from your holiday looking fitter than ever!! Las Coronas, Avenida del Mar, open daily 07:00- 23:00, Saturdays 07:00-12:00.
Entertainment and Family Fun
There’s no escaping it, Costa Teguise is a place designed for fun, family holidays – it’s not trendy, it’s not pretentious, you get what it says on the can. Pueblo Marinero Craft Market This is held every Friday evening in the Pueblo Marinero Square. The market creates quite a buzz and Fridays are the best evening to go out in Costa Teguise. There are many bars and restaurants in the square with tables outside and a central bandstand where there is live music on Fridays and Wednesdays. Two of the best bars here are:
Chispas – probably the tiniest bar in the whole of Costa Teguise, but with plenty of heart, soul and hot gossip as provided by Simon and Ellie. Great prices mean that locals and happy holidaymakers rub shoulders and swap stories while mingling at the bar. For a very different feel head to The Orient Express, the next bar along. It’s a modern chill-out bar with ambient tunes in the background and a good cocktail menu. Both these bars are open till the wee small hours.
Santa Rosa Centro de Ocio is a children’s fun centre that you can find in Avenida del Mar at the far end of the commercial area where the Santa Rosa Apartments are located. Partly indoors and partly outdoors they have struck a good balance with activities and age-specific areas to keep kids of all ages happy. There are soft play areas, bowling and a heap of other activities. There’s also a café to keep the big kids (oops I mean adults) happy. We’d recommend a trip there during the daytime when most local children are at school. The evenings, particularly when there are birthday parties taking place can be chaotic with a noise level to match Concorde taking off.
Opposite the Occidental Teguise Playa Hotel, upstairs in the commercial centre is Saxo’s Family Pub and Bowling Centre. There is a scaled down bowling centre here, which kids absolutely love, adjoining a large, open pub. Some of the best evenings are when there are live bands playing.
Day Tripping
A good way to take in some of Lanzarote without booking an excursion, or hiring a car is to hop on the bus. Costa Teguise has good connections to and from Arrecife (approximately every 20-30 minutes most days), and then from Arrecife onwards to Puerto del Carmen and other main towns. Tickets are cheap as chips and you get to see some real local sites rather than being purely on the tourist trail. Arrecife is a great place to wander around, although many of the shops shut down for the siesta period between 13:00 and 17:00.
Restaurants
There are a million food options in Costa Teguise, many of them mediocre, but the area is steadily gaining a good reputation as standards have risen thanks to the hard work of a number of forward thinking restaurant owners. Traditionally there have been some very good Spanish / Canarian restaurants for example Isla Bonita (Avenida del Mar, close to Playa Bastian, Tel 0034 928 591526) and La Jordana (Calle Los Geranios Tel 0034 928 590328, open 12:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30, closed Sundays) to name a couple that have attracted local and tourist clientele over many years. They have a higher level of service than most other restaurants and the food is freshly prepared. Both have extensive wine lists that will satisfy the wine buffs out there, but be prepared to pay a little more for your dining experience.
Not quite in the same league price-wise, although still offering high quality Spanish dishes is Restaurante El Bocadito Avda. Pinchos and tapas are popular here alongside quality Spanish and Canarian dishes. Islas Canarias – C.C. Los Charcos, (Tel 0034 928 346 794).
Two restaurants with more continental menu offerings are Oscars (Avenida del Mar tel: 928 590489) and Montmartre (Los Molinos, Avenida las Palmeras open 18:00 to late daily, closed Thursday’s) This is a popular French restaurant with a varied menu and “specials” that change regularly.
Best location with a great menu to match is claimed by Restaurant Villa Toledo overlooking the Playa Bastian beachfront in Avda. Villa Toledo has a massive outside terrace where you can choose to dine under shaded areas, beside the water feature if you are feeling Zen-like, or enjoy the sunshine and the views (even with the desalination plant!) are terrific. At lunchtime you can choose from a snack style menu or the main one that has both traditional and contemporary options. Unless it’s a really balmy night, evening dining is best from the interior of the restaurant, although this is also very open so you still have the feeling you are dining al fresco. Los Cocederos, Playa Bastián (Tel 0034 928 590626). Open every day 10:00-24:00.
Probably the biggest gastro success in Costa Teguise has been that of Basque chef Kerman and the opening of his two fab eateries within a 2-minute walk of each other in Avenida Islas Canarias. His original takeaway/taverna style restaurant Pikada opened in 2008, and really set new standards in pinchos, tapas and “posh takeaway” food.
Offering more than 30 different menu options in the traditional 3 sizes (tapas, medio and plato) it is a fun way to eat with family or friends. Tapas is also a good way of getting kids to try new and unusual looking food and by ordering small amounts that they can pick at. At Pikada, all the food is displayed in large cold counters so half the fun is choosing what you would like. There is a tiny interior and a small popular terrace so it can sometimes be difficult to find somewhere to sit. (Avenida Islas Canarias 28 open 12:00-23:00 daily, shut Sunday afternoons and Mondays).
As a result of the popularity of the food, and needing more seating, Kerman opened the larger restaurant Repikada, two minutes walk away on the other side of the same road. With a sizable interior, a large terrace and the same good food it’s been an immediate success. (open 12:00 – 23:00 daily)
Cheap as Chips…
When you’re looking for something cheap but good, two top quality vs. price restaurants are. You’ll notice heaps of Chinese restaurants throughout the resort. Golden City Chinese is the one we head to, especially when our kids have their buddies staying over for the evening. There is a great value buffet where even the fussiest child will find something they like. We aren’t suggesting this place is a high cuisine experience, but the food is fine, the family who own the restaurant are nice and there’s a small play park and trampoline/bungee site right in front. Happy kids, happy eating….(Avenida Jabillo 25 – in the commercial centre on the opposite side of the road to the Occidental Teguise Playa Hotel – open daily 12:00-24:00).
Casa Luis (Avenida del Mar, CC Santa Rosa) has a lunchtime menu del dia (daily menu) of 2 courses, drink, coffee or desert for less than 8€. It’s solid home cooked food, traditional and hearty.
At café level there are some super options, it’s quite hard to get a bad cup of coffee in Costa Teguise. No messing around with Nescafe granules here, its full flavour, caffeine heavy, frothy milked real stuff. Our favourites are Café Bruno in Avenida de las Canarias which serves great paninis, sandwiches and other savoury morsels and, a little further down the road the super Tentacion French Bakery & Cafe Really with croissants and cakes to die for…
Las Caletas is a small fishing village on the edge of Costa Teguise on the beach road to Arrecife. There are a few gutsy, authentic restaurants here including our favourite Fondeadero. Simple Canarian food at great value prices, and as with most Canarian restaurants you can choose to order tapas (small portions), medio raciones (half plate) or a full meal. At lunchtimes there is a “menu del dia” – a simple, but hearty, 3 course meal available for less than €7 including a beer or cold drink. The owner Pablo gives all diners lottery tickets for his Christmas draw. The lucky winner will scoop €2000! Avenida de los Corales 22, Las Caletas (Tel 0034 928 592501).
On a final note, Costa Teguise doesn’t have a Casino, but we do have the man with the little Lotteria (Lottery Shop) in the commercial area in front of the Occidental Allegro Oasis Hotel in Avenida del Mar. These Spanish lotteries have some serious amounts of winnings for grabs. Try your luck with Euro Millones. The draw is on a Friday evening and you buy lines of numbers for €2 a pop. The shop has erratic opening times but you can normally catch him open from 10:30 to 13:00 each day.
