Puerto Del Carmen
The largest tourist resort on the island, and probably a place we would generally advice to steer well clear of if you are looking for an experience that is more tasteful and cultural! What was once a fishing village has developed into the realm of the tour operators bucket and spade package dreamland with 6km of golden sandy family friendly beaches, playa grande and playa los pocillos. You will find all the usual paddle-lo, parascending, sun-bed hire etc.
Beaches and the Avenida
Lining these beaches is an array of The Avenida de las playas (beach promenade) which has recently been renovated with palms lining the beachfront and ambient lighting. However, the vast quantity of nasty tacky Chinese shops selling everything from A-Z together with an excess of 100 restaurants and bars serving poor to average quality food and drinks encompassing nearly all continents from Asia to Africa and North America to Europe destroys any impression that the natural beauty of this waterside location could evoke.
However, between 18-25 and looking for any kind of nightlife action, this is a vibrant place especially during carnival time in February, where the streets swell with a mix of locals and foreigners to celebrate one of the largest carnivals outside of Rio and Tenerife. (To be reckoned with Notting Hill Carnival). The carnival period in Lanzarote stretches over one month and moves from Arrecife to Puerto Del Carmen and finally to Playa Blanca. Puerto Del Carmen is a tourist machine but it’s clear waters and sheltered beaches are a great playground for families and young adults alike.
Restaurants and Bars we can Recommend
However, don’t totally despair. The old town harbour has managed to retain a thread of Spanish traditions and every night you can enjoy a relaxing and authentic scenario with locals playing boules and sea view facing restaurants. There are a couple of lively bars the Heineken and San Miguel bar which fill up towards midnight, so a place to avoid if you want a quiet relaxing drink. Fridays and Saturday nights especially.
In the daytime and early evening it’s a great place to enjoy a relaxing drink if you are have children in tow. The newly refurbished park and large square is perfect for letting the kids run wild with a football or while away some time in the play park. You can be safe in the knowledge that the kids are safe and the tiered hilly layout gives you a great panoramique view for those little monkeys who like to do their own exploring.
Our quick recommendations include the fish market restaurant La Lonja, which is the two storey building on the right as you come into the old town. Take a table upstairs if you have kids as they have an outside terrace space for letting off steam induced by good table manners. Seafood, or Tapas is excellent, good service and relaxing vibe. Calle Varadero, Old Town, Puerto Del Carmen, (Tel 0034 928 511377).
For a romantic waterside fish supper, try Casa Roja, naturally the red building right on the water’s edge as you arrive in the old town. You can watch the sun go down, enjoy a relaxing supper and then head for something more lively in one of the bars. Great local wine selection and service. The will make great recommendations. Avenida Varadero, Puerto del Carmen, (Tel 0034 928 51 58 66).
Book a table on the terrace of the Tepanaki Grill Nippon in the summer, or sit around the grill for a more cosy and entertaining evening with a group of friends. The sushi and sashimi are highly recommended as well as the Fish menu. You can expect not to see much change out of €50 per head with plenty of wine to wash it down, if that’s how you like to roll – california style. Calle Roque Nublo, 15, Puerto Del Carment (Tel 0034 928 514507).
Emma’s Cantina is a little gem up in the back of the Old Town. Authentic Mexican Food, great atmosphere and massive portions. We recommend the fajitas but girls you can share one between three of the combination platter, especially if you are like us like the nachos and guacamole to get things going. Calle Teide 20, Puerto Del Carmen (Tel 0034 928 51 41 54).
For a bigger more brash night out the Avenida can still be a goer. The Restaurant La Canada, after fifteen years as a family run restaurant with consistent recommendations year on year in the Michelin Guide is a popular and well recommended stop. The owners believe in high quality and you get what you pay for as they old saying goes. Sitting right next to the Centro Atlantico, where it all kicks off in Puerto Del Carmen later in the evening then this could be a great starting point, or alternatively a great start and finish before the carnage of the top touristy night outs start.
It’s quite formal but we like it for a special occasion and the food is most definitely streets ahead of anything surrounding it. You can also have a good laugh and a joke with the waiters despite the formality of the dining room. César Manrique , 3 Puerto del Carmen, (Tel 0034 928 51 21 08).
Just down from the Biosfera shopping centre as you are standing in front with your back to it you will find our favourite food export. The best curry house on the island, Zaffran, okay it’s either no1 or no2 as they have now opened a second one on the avenida called Aroma. Zaffran, Calle Juan Carlos I, commercial center Olivine nº 25, Puerto del carmen, just by the Biosphere shopping Center. (Tel 0034 928 51 27 47 or 676 229 497).
Their excellent cuts of meat and authentically well prepared dishes are simply delicious. Try the butter chicken, its the original version of the chicken tikka marsala and has the same spicy, sweet moorish flavour, but more yummy. Indian Aroma, Avenida De las Playas nº14, commercial center Las Tabaibas, nº 1, Puerto del Carmen, (Tel 0034 928 51 09 71 or 667 677 964 or 629 886 708).
Finally, just around the corner is the Restaurant Montmartre. French cuisine, a cosy French ambience, perfectly suited to a cooler evening as the inside is very warm and relaxing, and is perfect for an all evening experience. The food quality is high as you would expect from owners having worked in Paris for many years before establishing this little taste of France over eighteen years ago. Calle Jameos, 5 Puerto del Carmen. (Tel 0034 928 513 048).
Our other personal recommendation would also be to start your evening with a freshly shaken cocktail in the Hawaii Bar, although it’s twenty five years of age would allow you to believe that’s its a bit past it. We are firm avid supporters and still believe it’s one of the coolests bars around. Funk and Jazz beats make it popular with tourists and lcoals combined. Tuck into some great local cuisine at La Canada and then back to the Hawaii Bar for a digestive or round two of the cocktails, then either a) Go big, or b) make a sharp exit, and wake up smug in the knowledge that you aren’t needing the bloody Mary breakfast route!
A great daytime dining experience in Puerto Del Carmen would be at La Terraza, it’s the only place that you can eat right on the beach. The restaurant is located opposite Lani’s Indian Restaurant on the Avenida, you have to go past the Casino with the sea on your right. It is one way so you can’t go wrong! You will find a a set of stairs to down get there. It’s not brillianty signposted in fact The Place signpost you will definitely see and it’s just after that.
This is a great lunchtime place offering fresh salads, fish, club sandwiches, fries, icecreams. Service is good and you can then head straight over to the little safe beach and spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing, snorkelling or sunbathing. We love this is you have got a bunch of small ones as they can’t get lost the beach is not big enough and there is also a few rock pools to the right so they can check out the little fish and crabs as well. Parking is a bugbear though. Avenida de las Playas, Puerto Del Carmen (Tel 0034 928 515417).
Retail Therapy
Aside from the Chinese stores selling cheap towels and buckets and spades, the Biosfera shopping centre has a good selection of high street stores. You will find most clothing and retail products priced differently to the UK especially in Mango and Zara. You will also find some other European high street stores only present in big city shopping areas such as on Oxford street London, Blue Water, so there’s a little bit of something different than back home. At the top of the biosfera is a large ball park and mini golf area for any alien male not looking to pick up a latest season bargain in Zara or Mango, or more likely an investment piece from Timberland.
Rancho Texas, is the closest you’re gonna get to a Zoo or theme park here on the island. The park has a variety of different animals including white tigers. Birds of prey shows, Parrot shows, lasso shows. It has a really cowboy, wild west theme. The day has shows running from 11 am, so it’s best to get their before. Our kiddies love the reptile section (well, the boys do!). There is a bus service free from Puerto Del Carmen, and up to a maximum of €4 from Playa Blanca. There is also flamenco and country line dancing in the evenings. Although, it’s not something that we have experienced firsthand ourselves, we have heard some stories! Calle Noruega, Puerto Del Carmen. (Tel 0034 928 841 286, or 0034 928 513 212).
