Yaiza
This region sits on the southern end of the Island, and is home itself to the town of Yaiza, the central administrative hub of this area. This region has been bucking the trends somewhat with new hotels and The Marina Rubicon being recently built, and probably best described as home of the hotel chain offering the biggest selection of new and modern hotels in Playa Blanca. The antithesis of Playa Blanca has to be the small Town of Yaiza sitting on the perimeter of the National Park. The most traditional and tranquil town on the island. Steeped in history of being saved from the rivers of lava that flowed in the 17 century to thwarting the pirates of these same decades. Home to the first Canarian Catholic diocese arguably bares some reason as to why Yaiza has had a lucky escape!
Art and Culture Yaiza
So, a quick overview of Yaiza. It’s definitely on the list for the most boring there’s nothing to do here teen and tween posse . However, if you can un-plug their ipods and attitude for a little while there’s definitely some history and atmosphere to be appreciated here. Nuestra Senora de los Remedios home to a statue of the Madonna and legend has it that she is sometimes bathed in an unexplainable blue light. This might be a good story to enlighten the boring sulk brigade. The reality of Yaiza is that there is a beautiful church, some amazing scenery and a superbly relaxed ambience. The coach parties stop by here and drop into a couple of huge restaurants. Don’t be lured in by the number of people.
So the lava flowed and part of the National Park resides in the municipal of Yaiza shared with it’s neighbouring municipal that of Tinajo. The lava itself covers 174 kilometres squared and once you arrive in this area by road you can really feel that overwhelming eery sense of change in scenery and atmosphere, even in the car. The National Park itself is only 51 kilometres squared which is basically the area where the route of the eruptions were, and where the core lava is and what is still to this day unchanged by humans, tourists and general money making intervention. The area a massive outdoor laboratory for the colonisation of flora and fauna. Montanas del Fuego (Fire Mountains). This is a great trip out. Buses excursions take you across the 13km route that weaves and winds itself through landscapes from when time began. The areas of heat provided from pockets of magma offer a unique crater bbq serving fish and meat in the circular restaurant looking out over the land before time. Designed by Cesar Manrique it fits the bill tastefully designed attention to detail both internally and externally, with the unique retro 70’s retro style and ambience, impossible to replicate. A great experience.
Restaurants
Opt for the small spanish Tapas bar that has a long and thing bar with glasses that are etched in time, but offering the most amazing of traditional tapas dishes both hot and cold, meat, fish or vegetarian. Take one of the tables by the door so you can still enjoy the sunshine and world going by. Located opposite the church just down from the tourist gift shop. If you want luxe then go for lunch at the Finca de las Salinas, an idyllic rural hotel with spa, where you will enjoy 5* michelin gastronomy at Lanzarote prices.
Yummy Food Bits in the Area
This region would you believe is home to two of the fish smoking houses on the Island. The newest and probably more daring is that of the ahumaderia de Macher. Having been run for the past six years by owner Lina Rademacher. Preparing much of her smoked salmon for all the 5* hotels on the island Lina’s little smoking fish shop has become somewhat of a hub. Lina is the third generation in her family to be running a smoked fish business so they’ve got it pretty dialed. Always keen to try new things the shop also smokes tuna, swordfish and the latest Octopus! Naturally smoking as much local produce as possible. Lina is a mind of information and happy to offer advise whilst you sample her delicate gastronomic adventures and traditional favourites.
Just outside of Yaiza on the road that has taken you from Puerto Calero to Yaiza you will pass the second ahumaderia. (Smokery). The 30 year old ahumaderia receives deliveries of Fresh Salmon flown in from Scotland and Norway, although we fans of the latter considering we are partly swathed in the Norwegian Flag and the firm partriotic belief that Norway has the best of everything – oil, fish, breathtakingly beautiful country. (well that’s another project anyway..) The fish is smoked for two days and then available to buy at €16 per half kilo. Considering you cannot buy 150 grams of smoked salmon in the supermarket for less than €7.50. This is not badly priced. Open everyday 10.00 -13.00 and then 16.00 – 18.30. Saturdays 10.00 – 14.00. Indulge yourselves! We recommend it with really good mayonnaise on white artisanal bread with lemon juice and black pepper.
If your like me and love nothing better than pottering in the kitchen with a bunch of fresh produce then Uga has another great offering for you. The municipal market on saturdays and sundays from 10-14.00. Excellent for picking up produce from the farmers and local well priced vegetables and not so far to go as Mancha Blanca on Sundays if your more in this southern area. We still advise to raise your carcass from your resting place at a reasonable hour so as not to be disappointed.
Restaurants
Run by the same owners is the Bodega de Uga. A restaurant with no menu, offering what you fancy eating and cooked to perfection. There’s plenty of choice from all fresh meats and some traditional canarian meats ( big rabbit eaters over here). Open every evening 19.00 – midnight and a meal is around €30 per head. Shut Thursday. (Tel 0034 928 830 147).
There are a couple of good restaurants for the ultimate in freshly caught local fish the Restaurant Playa Quemada or the more recently opened Restaurant Salmarina with picturesque oceanside dining, Playa Quemada is tranquil and sheltered and ideal if you are trying to slow your pace of life, or if time just constantly seems to fly by. Here you can relax, enjoy and still have time on your side.
Never far at any point on the Island from a wine Bodega Yaiza is no exception. The highly acclaimed La Geria region spreads towards Yaiza and to the unique El Chupadero Bodega. Lovingly restored, home to exquisite food and drinks but also cultural events. Once upon a time El Chupadero was famous for its full moon parties in the 80’s and 90’s but hey we all grow up, and the Bodega now boasts expansion into guesthousing and regular cultural events with an incredible patriotic clientel.
Beaches
The Papagayo Beaches are a conservation area situated just outside of Playa Blanca. It is well signposted at the bottom of the hill if you have come to Playa Blanca via Femes. If you haven’t then you will come all the way through Playa Blanca heading west. They are well signposted so there is no bother with that. The beaches are tucked away at the end of a very long and crazy dirt track that everyone seems to race down no matter whether they have a 4 x 4 desert Land Cruiser or an imaginary one in the shape of a battered out Seat hire car. There is a minimal charge per vehicle of €3.00 to enter the beaches. The beaches are a little bit awkward to get to, so try and pack minimally, although you are advised to take some shade as there is absolutely none. Also, it’s great snorkelling down there and we definitely recommend going for a good chunk of the day. It’s not a quick drop in kind of beach. Check out the link for some breathtaking panoramic views. Panoramic Views. This is a well recommended beach if the weather is a bit iffy and windy as it’s very protected and very southern. The beaches are fine white sandy, and the waters unbelievably clear.
Out and About in the Region
The winding car journey to Playa Blanca via Femes takes you to the summit and breathtaking views of Playa Blanca and the South of the Island, and eventhough I rarely stop and get out of my car, I am always surpassed by the euphoric state the view leaves me feeling. It’s definitely a titanic on Kate Winslet on the front of the boat moment. Enjoy this moment leisurely over lunch at the Balcon de Femes restaurant. Although, Casa Emiliano round the corner with it’s quaint and colourful garden would be our preference. If you are keen on walking you can walk from Yaiza to Femes and back again. The walk is around 13.5km and hilly but probably one of the nicest walks on the island. For more info on walks and organised walks
If you want to sample a touch of the untouched and go back a few years in time then head to Playa Quemada. It is possible to take the cliff top dirt track from the Hesperia Hotel in Puerto Calero and follow the coastline to Playa Quemada. The walk is peaceful, enjoyable, just watch your step. It only takes around forty five minutes at a very slow pace. On arriving in this sleepy little bay, you will notice a jumble of topsy turvy canarian villas with washing hanging out and an interesting array of extensions and add ons. It all adds to the charm. Be aware that people the locals will spot you a mile off. The beach area is rocky and tranquil and perfect for a little rock pooling armed with some fishing nets for the kids, or as mine prefer embarking on a take of the world’s strongest man competition and trying to find the largest pebble/rock and throwing it just two cm in front of their feet to get the biggest splash.
Geographical volcanic anomalies are ever present across the island including the Village and surrounding area of El Golfo where you can visit the luminous green lagoon. Sea water has become trapped and the algae has caused the water to turn bright snot green. The position and surrounding landscape is very moody and dramatic perhaps even eery if you visit on a cloudy, windy day.
However, the multitude of restaurants in the village of El Golfo situated so dangerously close to the ocean is what attracts people here. Our favorite would have to be the Restaurante Bogavante for it’s insane selection of dishes, particularly those truly original canarian. Secondly the service, great , truely great service is hard to find and consistently receive in any country, city or Island but is top on Adrian Rodriguez the owner’s priority and it shows. The sunsets here are postcard style so if you want instead to enjoy a romantic meal then delegate the grannies to babysit if you have been lucky enough to have them along and take in an evening here. If it’s lunch then beware on weekend’s and book up as it gets really busy with locals.
Before the food comatose sets in and you are wondering where to lay your head for a quick siesta don’t forget to check out los Hervideros which are basically the bubble pots where the volcanic rock has been eroded away by the atlantic ocean, and you can watch the sea water blasting in and out with the currant. And finally the Salinas del Janubio, salt flats where islanders back in the day would collect sea salt for personal consumption and that of export. The area is a mass of varying colours yet the sea salt is still as you find it in the grinder on your dining room table, sparkling white.
Horsey, Horsey
Equestrian mad, left the horses at home then Lanzarote a Caballo is a great half day out. Lanzarote a Caballo is a full Equestrian centre with riding lessons, hacking out, and camel rides all available. Lanzarote a Caballo has a great new petting farm for smaller children as well as bouncy castles, safe play area and the La Caravana restaurant. There is also paintballing although there are age restrictions.
